Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and over three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a fence on